Back in Time

Here is one of the most charming and interesting places we have visited.

There is a little city, nestled in a little valley completely surrounded by mountains, called Shirakawa-go.  ("Go" means "village.")  It is now a world heritage site, so they host visitors year round and the tourist trade is what keeps it running. (There is also skiing in the general area.)  It is a step back in time and it is a joy to see.

These homes are called "Gassho-style", which is a thatched gable roof.  The massive wood framed structure of the first floor supports the entire house.  The second and third floors are located in the space created by the steep gable roof with a gradient of about 60 degrees.  Not one nail or pin is used to hold the framework of this steep roof.  Instead, they are tied together with rope and viscous neso, a type of rope made by twisting young Japanese Witch Hazel.  The wide attic was used as a place to raise silkworms, an industry that once supported the lives of the people of Shirakawa-go.

There were ponds near most homes, and koi in many of them.
But the Japanese call these beautiful, bright vari-colored fish.....carp.

This building used to be the jail.

Several years ago we had a Japanese exchange student who had never seen wheat.
This photo is for those of you who have never seen rice, nearly ready for harvest.

The thatched roofs require replacement every 30-40 years.  Since the roofs are huge and very steeply sloped, replacement of the thatch requires a tremendous effort.  And the work must be completed as quickly as possible because the houses are occupied, and interruption of daily life much be minimized.  About 200 people accomplish the huge task in a period of approximately two days.  A system known as yui was developed to obtain the help of this many people.  Yui is a system of labor exchange that ensures a close relationship between villagers.  Since some houses no longer have thatched roofs, the yui system of today has changed, but a yui-like mindset does still exist.  Many volunteers now recognize the importance of this valuable heritage and come to Shirikawa-go to assist in rethatching.

Taking off the old thatch.




Replacement Step 2--laying mats.

Mats almost complete.

Adding thatch.

This is what you call working together!

So beautiful.  But when I see all these homes surrounded with ponds, rice fields, ditches, water everywhere,
I can't help but think "mosquitos."

We climbed a hill to get this great view.  It was an unusually hot day,
but we rewarded our climb with a soft ice cream cone.

Elder Barney, Sister Barney, Jesselah McGrath, and Sister Kondo.
Notice how this truly is a valley surrounded!

This is the bottom floor of one of the homes.  The fire under the black pot is kept burning,
even in the extreme heat.  It keeps the wood dry and the mosquitos away.
But it was smokey in there, and I wouldn't want to breathe that all my life.

This was in the second level of the home above.  It was a very large area.
This display shows the "needles" used to get the thatch into the roof.

This is amazing to me.  No nails.  Just rope, which I think they still make, too.  

Just two more tourists, spending their money to help the village out.

Jesselah was helping me choose some things
from this gift shop for the grandchildren.

Lunch break.  Sister Kondo brought lunch, complete with octopus.
It was actually good.  We were overlooking a beautiful river.

I think the rice fields look beautiful the entire growing season, from the first little shoots coming up, to the summer deep green covering everything, to this lime green as the rice starts to ripen, to the yellow of the fields ready to harvest.

The people make everything they need, mostly from rice plants.  Here are boots, bags, coats, baskets, brooms,
and a few things I don't have a name for.

Proof they have scarecrows in Japan.
And pretty girls trying to imitate them.

We were fascinated by this drink cooler.  Clever!!

Question:  Does it snow in Shirakawa-go?

This looks like it's out of a story book.

These last three are each a picture of a picture.  The people have to work together in winter, too.
 They have to keep the roofs from too much buildup of snow.  They can't bare the weight and
if the weather warms up and snow starts to melt, it damages the thatch.


Beauty shop names:  "Beauty Creation Lovers" and  "Hair Make Inner Vision"